FAQ about ponies and foals

1. How much does a pony cost per month?

Small horse equals low costs, right? Not necessarily. The costs for accommodation, vet, farrier and worming are not dependent on the size of the horse.

The amount of the livery costs for the pony is determined by the type of stabling, the scope of services and the region where the yard is located. You should therefore expect to pay between £50 and £150/week for livery.

The basic feed for the pony (hay, oats, bedding) is included in most livery packages and does not have to be paid extra depending on the quantity. However, if you want to feed your pony grain-free, you usually have to buy your own horse feed. Feed costs can vary greatly depending on requirements and species. You can find out how to feed ponies according to their needs in our pony guide.

You can also expect very different costs for regular hoof care over four to eight weeks. This is because the farrier costs depend on whether the hooves are only trimmed or whether they are shod. The cost of shoeing, in turn, is determined by the type and number of shoes used. The range per pony can therefore be very wide, from £60 to £180.

Many stables prophylactically worm their horses and ponies two to four times a year. This costs around £20 per product (FAQ 8). The same applies to regular vaccinations (FAQ 9).

Sharing a pony is cheaper than keeping one solely by yourself. The costs are manageable at £80 to £120. Livery, vet, feed and farrier costs are then borne by the pony owner.

Before buying a children’s pony, you should be aware that the child will quickly outgrow the pony and will no longer be able to ride it. The pony may then have to be sold on. However, there are many alternatives to riding that are just as much fun with a pony.

2. Can you keep a pony by itself?

Some people may think that a pony is so small that it could be kept alone in the front garden. But ponies, as small representatives of horses, are also herd animals and need the company of their conspecifics.
Ponies should be turned out as part of a herd as it helps them feel safe and build social bonds. Depending on the type of housing and space available, the ideal size of a group is up to 12 ponies. Of course, their need for fresh air, light and exercise must also be met.

3. How heavy can I be for a pony?

Although ponies are considered to carry loads and weight, there are limits to the weight they can carry or pull. You can use the 1:7 rule of thumb as a rough guide. For a 350kg pony, this means that the rider should weigh around 50kg. Experts set the absolute upper limit at 20% of the horse’s weight. So if the pony weighs 350kg, the rider must not weigh more than 70kg – including equipment.

If the pony permanently carries a rider who is too heavy, it will not only run out of breath because its movement is restricted. It also develops balance problems, which causes it to stumble, it becomes dependent on the saddle and girth and the vertebrae and back muscles become pathologically altered.

An adult rider can quickly become too heavy for a pony. However, pony and rider must always be seen as a whole. The horse’s fitness level, body and muscle structure play just as much a role as the rider’s balance. After all, a balanced rider who is heavier is less harmful to the horse than an unbalanced, light rider, who ploughs into the horse’s back.

4. Which ponies are suitable for adults, children and beginners?

Ponies for beginners and children should have a good-natured, sociable character. Smaller pony breeds are preferable, especially for beginners with a fear of heights. However, their short, tippy movements can make it difficult for them to find their balance. Cobs, on the other hand, have softer movements and are more comfortable to sit on.

The following pony breeds or types are suitable for children or beginners:

Shetland ponies are smart, hard-working, open and willing to learn, but also get bored quickly. They should therefore be kept busy in a varied way.
The various types or sections of Welsh ponies with their different sizes and characters, from fiery to good-natured, are a good choice for riding students of all levels.
Connemara ponies are very gentle animals and make great partners for children. Connemaras are powerful jumpers and can also be used for jumping.
Icelandics are real all-rounders, good-natured and friendly.
The British Riding Pony is sociable and sporty. It is therefore particularly suitable for children who want to get started in competition.
Highland Ponies are ideal leisure and hacking horses for children and adolescents due to their balanced, fearless character.

Ponies for light adults should be stable, resilient pony and cob breeds. As described in FAQ 3, you should ensure a harmonious size ratio between horse and rider.

The Morgan Horse is the oldest registered horse breed in the USA. These cobs are characterised by their sure-footedness, robustness, bravery and, above all, their versatility.
Icelandic horses
Haflinger
British Riding Pony
Fjord horse
Welsh-Cob section C and D

For more information about ponies, their character and their areas of use, read our guide to ponies and cobs.

5. How old can a pony get?

With an average age of between 30 and 35 years, ponies grow older than large horses (25 to 30 years). Of course, there are also exceptions that live to be over 40 years old. Pony breeds are generally late maturing horses, which means that they can live to a very old age with the right care and keeping. How old a pony actually gets depends on how long it has been in service and how intensively and well it has been worked over the years.

6. How long should a foal stay with its mother?

In the wild, the mother mare weans her foal herself, at the latest when the mare is in foal again. The foal is gradually weaned from its mother in or by the herd. For economic and husbandry reasons, this procedure is only rarely possible in horse keeping. Here, foals are weaned after 5 to 6 months at the earliest, before being brought to a youngstock yard in late summer or autumn. If foals are weaned earlier, this can lead to undesirable developments.

There are different procedures for weaning: Gradual separation minimises stress, while permanent separation causes a stress peak. Breeders also practise physical separation so that the foal can no longer suckle. Which method is used for weaning must be decided on a very individual basis, as mares and foals cope differently with separation.

Regardless of the weaning method, the foal should never be left alone, it needs the company of other horses, ideally in a mixed herd with young and old horses. To minimise stress for the foal, the foal should not be moved, gelded or have its feed changed during the weaning period. The feed is gradually changed before weaning and castrations are postponed until afterwards.

7. Can a foal grow up without other foals?

An absolute no-go in foal rearing is to let the foal grow up alone. After weaning and even before, it needs the company of other foals and young horses. Social contact and age-typical play with peers is essential for healthy development. Without this form of social contact, some growing foals can develop behavioural problems. Or an overly strong relationship with humans may develop, which can cause problems later in the horse’s life, e.g. when integrating into a new group.

For foals and young horses, it makes the most sense to keep them in a group in the field all day. In winter it can be group-housing with a paddock and sufficient space. Single stables should be completely rejected for foals.

You can read more information about foal rearing in the guide.

8. When and how often should a foal be wormed?

Ascarids, strongyles, threadworms and tapeworms are relevant for foals until weaning. The first treatment should be given from the 8th or 9th week against ascarids, then repeated every eight to nine weeks until autumn. However, it should not be more than three worming treatments, otherwise resistance will develop.

After the first frost in winter, a worming treatment against strongylids and bot larvae is added.

The foal does not need to be wormed before the 8th week of life. Especially if the mare is wormed directly before or after giving birth. The active ingredients pass through the blood-udder barrier, which means that the foal is also dewormed. Exceptions are foals that suffer from prolonged diarrhoea. These must then be wormed against threadworms during the the foal heat.

Targeted deworming is even better than blanket deworming, whereby treatment is only given after a proven worm infestation. This minimises the young horse’s exposure to medication.

After weaning, the young horse should be wormed regularly. Regularity is not determined by an exact time interval, but by the fact that deworming is maintained. Any treatment, as well as the choice of active ingredient, must be clarified with the attending veterinarian.

The following measures can be taken to minimise parasite pressure for the good development of the young horse:

Daily cleaning of the run
Poo-picking the field
Mowing the latrine areas/roughs
Harrowing in autumn

9. When should a foal be vaccinated?

Foals are born without antibodies, which is why colostrum is crucial for their immune defence. A foal therefore does not need to be vaccinated before it is six months old. If the mare is fully immunised against tetanus at the time of birth, the foal should not be vaccinated until it is 6 or 7 months old. If the foal is vaccinated before this time and at the same time absorbs antibodies through the mother’s milk, the young horse may not be able to build up its own tetanus protection for the rest of its life.

Vaccination against tetanus is the most important for the first vaccination from 6 months of age. The best time to vaccinate foals is before weaning or two to three months after, in order to minimise the effects of stress on the body. For many foals, the booster vaccination comes after weaning at the youngstock livery yard.

Combination vaccines should be avoided, as this can overload the foal’s immune system.

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