Dog grooming & care: Tips for an all-round well-groomed dog

In addition to sufficient exercise and a proper diet, a healthy dog also needs to be groomed. If you regularly take care of your dog’s all-round grooming, you will discover wounds, inflammations or other conditions of the dog more quickly and be able to deal with them. Comprehensive grooming includes more than just coat grooming, because the dog’s eyes, paws and ears also need to be looked at. In this guide, we give you tips on how to keep your dog healthy with the correct grooming.

What kind of grooming does a dog need?

Excessive grooming is not good for the dog, nor is too little of it. Depending on the dog and the breed, you have to find the suitable level of grooming. The most important thing is regularity, in order to be able to recognise possible injuries or inflammations of the skin or in the mouth in good time. The degree of grooming, as well as the type of grooming, depends on the breed of dog and subsequently on the type of coat. In addition to coat grooming, dog grooming also includes:

• Paw care
• Ear care
• Eye care
• Dental care

Coat grooming for dogs: How to care for the different types of coats correctly

There is a reason why individual dog breeds look completely different, because each dog breed has its own coat type. Accordingly, coat grooming is therefore different. Basically, the coat covers the dog completely, only the nose and paw pads remain hairless. Naked dog breeds are the exceptions.

A dog’s coat performs various tasks:

• Sun protection, by reflecting the sun’s rays
• Insulation in cold weather
• Protection from injuries
• Indicator of the dog’s health (healthy fur is shiny)
• Communication with other dogs, for example by raising the hairs on the back of the neck when excited.

The coat of dogs grows funnel-like in tufts. These tufts are usually composed of two different types of hair. The top coat and woolly hair or undercoat. Not all dogs have a soft, warming undercoat, which thins out towards summer, and the topcoat looks different in various coat types.

Especially dogs with an undercoat need regular brushing and combing to remove dead tufts of hair. Dogs with a undercoat shed twice a year, whereupon they need to be combed well. Otherwise, loose undercoat will form an airtight carpet, causing itching, inflammation and skin fungus.

In the following, we give you an overview of the individual coat types with our grooming recommendations:

Double Coat

In the case of double coats, a distinction is made between the short coat (3-4 cm) and the long coat (5-10 cm). The top coat is smooth, while the undercoat grows almost as long as the top coat in some breeds. Dogs with a double coat include rottweilers, German shepherds, huskies, collies, spitz or labradors. In spring the undercoat dies and must be brushed out well, in autumn more undercoat grows again. The top coat, on the other hand, changes throughout the year.

Dogs with a double coat should be combed and brushed two to three times a week. Long-haired dogs in particular should be de-tangled before brushing. Suitable for grooming these dogs are:

• Rubber curry comb
• Coat comb
• Deshedding brush
• Massage brush
• Standard grooming brush

Short hair or smooth coats

Shorthaired dogs have smooth, close lying topcoats that are only one to two centimetres long. Depending on the breed, shorthaired dogs have little, yet very dense or no undercoat at all. Examples of this type of coat are the doberman or the boxer.

Throughout the year, dogs with short hair lose occasional hairs, so it is sufficient to loosen the top coat by gently massaging it. Hard brushes or curry combs made of metal are off-limits for short-haired dogs! The following are better

• Massage glove
• Massage brush with rubber nubs
• Rubber brush
• Standard grooming brush

Long coats

As the name suggests, the smooth outer coat grows up to 20cm long. Depending on the breed, long-haired dogs have a lot of long undercoat or no undercoat at all. The longer the undercoat, the more complicated grooming becomes. Border collies, Old English sheepdogs, cocker spaniels or setters can be counted among the long-haired dogs.

Daily, thorough brushing is the motto when grooming to prevent matting. This is especially true for long-haired dogs with a lot of undercoat and for dogs whose fur drags on the floor. Frequent showers or baths with dog shampoo can make grooming easier. Also needed:

• Fur comb with long teeth
• Detangling brush
• Undercoat rake
• Stripping knife

Wavy or curly coats

With dogs with wavy coats, all hairs are of the same length and are more or less curly. A typical example of this type of coat is the poodle. Dogs with a wavy coat are often also hypoallergenic.

Wavy hair must be combed thoroughly at least once a week without fear of loss of structure. Clipping can help against matting. A shower is also recommended for easier combing. For grooming a dog with wavy coat you need:

• Slicker brush
• Fur comb
• Clippers
• Dog shampoo

Rough or wire coats

The top coat is particularly wiry and firm, almost bristly. This gives the wire coat a good water-repellent protection combined with a dense undercoat. Wire coats include wire-haired dachshunds, schnauzers and a large proportion of terriers. The top coat grows in a six-month cycle, completely independent of the seasons, and must then be plucked out. This is because wire coats do not shed their coat, the dead hair must be removed by trimming, whereupon the new hair receives a growth impulse.

Trimming at the appropriate time does not cause the dog any pain. A rough coat should not be clipped, as this destroys the water and dirt-repellent coat structure and dead hairs remain on the dog, thereby causing itching.

For grooming a wire coat the following is necessary:

• Natural hair brush
• Flexible slicker brush
• Stripping knife
• Undercoat rake
• Blending scissors for sensitive areas

Dog paw care: well-groomed velvety paws

Just as hoof care is important for horses, regular paw care is also essential for dogs.

The majority of a dog’s paw consists of keratinised paw pads. These protect the dog from hard surfaces. In addition, the pads have receptors for temperature, vibrations and sweat glands that secrete to make the paws more grippy for a better footing. Under the pad skin is fatty tissue that buffers shocks during walking and thus protect the dog’s joints and bones. The individual toes are flexibly connected to each other by the interdigital skin, while the hairs between the pads protect these spaces from injury and friction. Finally, claws made of bone grow out of the pads, which act like spikes and give the dog additional grip.

The dog’s paws must be checked regularly to ensure that they are free of injuries, that the claws do not become too long or ingrown and that the pads remain supple. There is an urgent need for action if the dog presents the following signs:

• The claws push upwards
• The dog licks and nibbles the paws
• The dog slips on slippery ground
• The dog loses the desire to walk
• The dog is lame, limping or has crooked paws

By walking on different, hard surfaces, the claws wear down. This is no longer the case for a large number of dogs, as they mainly run on carpeted floors or walk on soft grassy areas. The claws become too long until the typical tapping sound is heard when the dog walks. Then the long claws are pushed up and into the claw bed when curling. This pain leads to tension and misalignment and, in the long run, to joint damage such as arthrosis. Furthermore, the paw pads can no longer fulfil their buffering function.

Dog claws are the appropriate length when they do not touch the ground when the dog stands upright.

The hairs between the paw pads serve as protection, but if they become too long, they can retain felt, parasites, road salt, ice and other dirt. This eventually leads to inflammation and infection. In addition, if the hair on the paws is too long, the dog loses its grip, slips around and damages its joints. You can trim the hair back to the level of the claws and paw pads with rounded fur scissors. If the paws are particularly dirty, you can also give them a warm paw bath with dog shampoo beforehand.

Especially in winter, intense paw care is recommended. Cold, ice, snow clumps and road salt can put a lot of stress on the paws and cause them to crack, which is extremely unpleasant for the dog. After every walk, the paws should be cleaned and then creamed with Vaseline, udder cream or paw balm. In particularly cold temperatures, dog boots or socks can be put on the dog as a precaution.

Clean ears: Ear care for dogs

Dogs with floppy ears or a lot of fur in the external ear canal can quickly develop ear problems. Their natural cleaning mechanisms often work less well because their ears are not as well ventilated and develop a warm and humid climate, which is a good breeding ground for bacteria, germs and fungi.

Ear care is therefore part of the dog’s all-round care. Especially in summer, foreign bodies such as blades of grass, seeds, grains or dust can get caught in the external ear canal, block it and lead to inflammation. Before you start grooming your dog’s ears, you should have a vet look inside to make sure there is no inflammation.

Signs of ear infections in dogs may include:

• Tilting their head
• Shaking their head
• Scratching their ears
• Rubbing against the wall or carpet
• Sensitive to touch in the ear area
• In the case of inflammation, discharge of a dark secretion, unpleasant odour
• In case of mite infestation, a layer in the ear similar to coffee grounds

If the vet gives the OK that there are no foreign bodies in the ear canal and that the eardrum is intact, the dog’s ear can be regularly cleaned of earwax, dust and other dirt.

What is the best way to clean dog ears? Take the ear loosely by the tip and pull it slightly upwards. This stretches the L-shaped ear canal and the liquid can better reach all corners. Don’t worry about injury, the tip of the bottle cannot reach and damage the eardrum as it is far enough away from the ear opening. For cleaning, a special ear cleaner for dogs is recommended, which is generously poured into the ear. Thumb and forefinger now massage the ear canal from the outside, making a squelching sound. This loosens the dirt. By shaking, the dog carries loosened dirt and excess liquid towards the exit, from where it can be removed with a lint-free, absorbent cloth.

Our tip: For sensitive dog ears, we recommend the Ear Cleaner For Dogs Listen Up from sugar dog. Chamomile and witch hazel gently clean and care for sensitive ears and prevent inflammation.

In dogs that are prone to ear infections due to their ear shape or thick coat, the ears should be checked daily and cleaned weekly or even daily if necessary. For other dog breeds, once or twice a month may be sufficient.

Eye care for dogs: For clear vision

Basically, eye care for the dog is done with a small, smooth hand movement. One wipe and the eyes are clean. But this does not work for all dogs. Some eye diseases in dogs are congenital, others acquired. The most common eye problems in dogs are corneal inflammation, cataracts, conjunctivitis due to irritation or blocked tear ducts. If your dog has eye problems, you may observe the following:

• Squinting of the eyes until the eyes do not open at all
• Blinking
• Sensitivity to light and touch
• Rubbing eyes on carpet or with paws
• Purulent yellowish to greenish discharge
• Dilated pupils
• Bloodshot eyes
• Cloudy, glassy eyes, grey haze

In case of any abnormality, going to a vet should be the first step.

Watery eyes are nothing unusual at first, because this is a natural self-cleaning effect. Especially small dogs that carry their head close to the ground, heavy watering eyes are often the case. It only becomes unsightly in light-coloured dogs, as the fur discolours and so-called tear stains form. For gentle cleaning and care, an eye cleaner for dogs can be used to remove stains from the fur or to mildly clean the eyes after walking.

On the other hand, watery eyes can be a precursor of dry eyes, which can be caused by dry central heating, draughts when driving, air conditioning in the car or diabetes. In these cases, you should eliminate the causes in order to avoid conjunctivitis.

If your dog has sticky eyes, you should first get to the bottom of the cause and have a vet look at it. Yellowish to greenish secretions indicate an infection.

In long-haired dogs, eye irritation can be caused by the tips of the hair poking into the eye repeatedly. You can easily prevent this with regular grooming and trimming of the eyes.

Our tip: The Eye Cleaner Clear View for Dogs by sugar dog not only cleans dogs‘ eyes gently, but also cares for eyes thanks to the moisturising panthenol and can thus also prevent eye inflammation. Simply put some eye cleaner on a pad and then clean the affected areas.

Avoid bad breath and tartar with good dental care for dogs

Between the ages of 3 and 6 months, the dog replaces its milk teeth with permanent teeth. Then they have 42 teeth with which they eat, grasp, bite, tear and chew – so the teeth are an important tool for a dog. However, statistics show that 85% of all dogs over the age of three have dental problems. The even bigger problem is that dental problems are often not recognised by their owners, which is why the number is so high.

This is because not much importance is attached to a dog’s dental care. The problems start when bacteria from food residues get stuck in the inter-dental spaces and a layer of plaque develops. If this is not removed, tartar develops, which in turn attacks the gums and causes inflammation. In addition to pain when chewing and bad breath, lack of dental care can, in the worst case, cause teeth to fall out. With regular dental care, however, you can prevent gum changes and the resulting diseases.

How do you care for your dog’s teeth? Dental care in dogs begins with sufficient exercise. This is because the dog produces saliva, which takes over an important self-cleaning function in the dog’s dental care and contributes to the re-mineralisation of the teeth. This reduces the risk of tooth decay.

Then you can brush the dog’s teeth. A dog toothbrush or a finger pad with a special dog toothpaste easily removes food residues. Since this activity can be unpleasant for the dog and requires a lot of trust in humans, the dog should be accustomed to brushing its teeth slowly and with lots of praise and reassurance.

Why not let the dog do its own teeth cleaning? Chew toys are a playful way to clean the dog’s teeth. Chew toys made of hard or natural rubber have a hard but pliable surface, usually with nubs. For example, the Toothbrush Dog Toy Cleo from sugar dog. When the dog chews on it, the teeth are cleaned automatically. We go into more detail about chew toys in our dog toy guide.

Edible, sugar-free chews have a similar effect to chew toys. Chewing causes mechanical abrasion of the teeth, thus promoting clean teeth and preventing bad breath. You can find more information on chew toys in the guide to dog feeding.