Buying a saddle: What you should pay attention to

A high-quality saddle can be a costly investment, but it is worth it. After all, the health and well-being of the horse and subsequently its performance are at stake here. In itself, buying a saddle is a tricky subject that needs to be handled carefully and the fit of the saddle assessed with a critical eye. Before settling on a saddle, some points need to be considered and analysed so that both rider and horse are happy using it for a long time.

Saddle assessment: Does the saddle suit me and my horse?

When buying a saddle, it is important to make a comprehensive assessment. First and foremost, the saddle must fit the horse. Every horse has an individual back shape, which can also vary over time due to age, nutritional condition and muscle condition. In its basic shape, the saddle must fit the horse’s rock. The shape of the saddle tree plays a decisive role here, but also the shape and size of the panels and the gullet plate. For this, the saddler must measure the horse in order to either find an adaptable style or to create a made-to-measure saddle based on the determined data.

On the other hand, a saddle must also fit the rider and allow them to sit comfortably and relaxed. When assessing a saddle from the rider’s point of view, it is the seat that counts. Finding and choosing a good saddle is not a quick task. Therefore, every saddle must be ridden for at least 20 minutes during the fitting and tried out in all gaits. Only after a certain period of use does the saddle settle in, as the material yields accordingly. The more often and intensively the saddle is used, the faster it will settle in.

The saddle tree determines the curve of the saddle

The curve of the saddle is determined by the curve of the saddle tree. This is no problem with a made-to-measure saddle, because the saddler can measure the horse’s back and even create a 3D model that serves as the foundation for the made-to-measure saddle. With ready-made saddles or second-hand saddles, finding the right saddle tree is somewhat more difficult, as the basis of the saddle is already predetermined here. Depending on the condition of the saddle and its flocking, the saddler can make some adjustments to the fit. In the basic form, however, horse and saddle, as well as their centres of gravity, must fit together.

If the saddle tree has not enough curvature, the saddle rests like a bridge in the front and back, but not in the middle. This leads to pressure peaks, tension and even inflamed muscles. This bridge effect can become even more pronounced during riding when the horse raises, lowers or bends its back.

If the saddle tree has too much curvature, it rests in the middle and presses on the sensitive spinous processes – leaving the vertebral canal unobstructed. This effect is further intensified when the horse arches its back, which is actually the aim of training, but which leads to pain for the horse if the saddle does not fit properly.

When buying a saddle, you should try it out together with the saddle fitter in different postures and positions on the horse. It takes a lot of sensitivity and different measuring techniques to find out if the curve of the saddle fits the rock of the horse’s back.

When buying a saddle, look for wrinkle-free, smooth seat leather and whether there are any clear asymmetries in the saddle tree. The saddle tree should not squeak, creak or move noticeably. Movement, wrinkled seat leather and inappropriate noises are an indication of damage to the saddle tree.

The seat is also influenced by the saddle tree, which is a decision criterion for the rider. The rider should not be constricted by the pommel and cantle. You can find more information about seat size in the corresponding section.

Adequate clearance at the withers thanks to the correct front arch width

One of the most important criteria when buying a saddle is the withers clearance, which is guaranteed among other things by the width of the front arch. The withers are formed by the long spinous processes of the 3rd to 8th thoracic vertebrae, which are only covered with a thin layer of skin. Therefore, this area is not protected by a long muscle like the rest of the spine and is therefore very sensitive to pressure and friction. Accordingly, the saddle must be built in such a way that the withers remain free.

The front arch width indicates the width of the saddle. The inner distance between the tree points is measured for this purpose. The front arch width is often confused with the gullet width, i.e. the distance between the points of the gullet plate. But the two measurements are not the same! While the gullet plate width is determined by the angle and length of the gullet plate, the front arch width is determined by the shape and thickness of the saddle panels. The thicker the panels and the higher they are sewn to the saddle, the smaller the front arch width. If the panels are sewn further down, there is a greater distance between the panels and therefore also a greater front arch width. The size of the front arch width for the horse is determined by the shoulder blades and the withers.

If the gullet plate is too wide, the saddle will press on the withers and cause saddle sores. If the gullet plate is too narrow, not only will the muscles around the withers be squeezed, but the saddle will also be unstable. Many modern saddle styles have adjustable gullet plates that can either be continuously adjusted or easily replaced.

Angulation of the gullet plates

The front arch width is often confused with the gullet plate and its angulation, which can lead to problems when assessing and fitting the saddle. Although they go hand in hand, they must be kept separate. On the one hand, the gullet plate determines the gullet width, which is the free space between the points of the gullet plate, and on the other hand it marks the angulation of the horse’s shoulder. You cannot rely on the gullet width when buying a saddle, as it is defined differently from saddle design to saddle design and by each manufacturer. Even with the same saddle design, the gullet width can vary as it is also influenced by the length of the points. The longer the gullet, the greater the distance between the gullet points while the gullet angle remains the same. Most gullet widths are between 26 and 36 cm. However, the only way to find the right gullet width and gullet size is to try, measure and adjust.

The gullet plate must imitate the shape of the horse’s rump, the bars must be parallel to the shoulder blade and point vertically towards the ground. To check this, the flat of the hand is pushed under the saddle. If the gullet plate is set too far, the points will point away from the horse. The saddle no longer has any support and slips forwards. If the gullet plate is set too narrow, the points pinch the shoulder blades. The horse can no longer rotate the shoulder without the sensitive cartilage hitting the saddle.

This is further exacerbated by the rider’s weight. This leads to tension and, in the long term, to blockages. Whether the shoulder blade can rotate freely can be checked by lifting and pulling the front legs forwards. If the saddle is correctly positioned and the adjustment of the gullet plate is correct, the cartilaginous edge of the shoulder blade lies in front of the saddle without bumping against it.

Modern saddle designs even have (infinitely) adjustable or replaceable gullet plates. This simplifies saddle fitting, especially when the horse’s body changes.

The width of the channel and the size of the contact surface

The centre of the horse’s back is formed by the spinal processes, which are directly connected to sensitive ligaments. This sensitive structure is surrounded by the long back muscle. The saddle must not rest on the spinous processes and the ligaments. For this reason, the saddle forms a channel with saddle panels. This must not only be sufficiently high, but also wide, as the saddle panels may only rest on the back muscle. To determine the width of the channel, the spinous processes are carefully palpated. The sensitive ligaments run about two fingers wide on the left and right. This is where the back muscles that can bear the weight of the saddle begin. From outer edge to outer edge of the ligaments, about five finger widths are necessary to keep the spine free. Most saddles have channels that are at least four fingers wide.

However, there are also limits to the width of the channel: The contact surface of the saddle should end where the ribs noticeably protrude from the rib cage. A wide channel and a large, even contact surface of the saddle are crucial, but must not restrict the ribcage. In addition, the wider the channel, the smaller the contact surface, which has a negative effect on pressure distribution. The channel should therefore be as wide as possible but as narrow as required.

Most saddle designs have a straight channel so that the horse’s spinous processes do not hit the saddle when it bends. However, the channel of some saddles can also taper towards the rear.

And finally, the contact surface should be longer and wider than the seat size so that the rider’s weight is better distributed.

Saddle length and panels

The possible space for a saddle on a horse is limited at the front by the shoulder blade and at the back by the 18th thoracic vertebra. A suitable saddle must neither prevent the shoulder blade from rotating nor press on the organs behind the 18th thoracic vertebra. You can read how to feel and determine the saddle area in the section below. The length of the saddle is influenced by the length of the panels. If the panels protrude into the loin, pain can be caused by pressure on the kidneys, spleen, intestines and, in mares, the ovaries. The horse then either tries to escape the pain by running away or it becomes nappy and begins to buck and kick.

To avoid having to cut back on the rider’s seat size, the saddle length can be influenced to a certain extent by the shape of the panels. Upswept panels trace the curve of the saddle and are therefore suitable for short, curved backs. If the horse has lots of room for a saddle and a rather straight back, gusseted panels can be used to provide more saddle support. We have explained this in more detail in the chapter „Saddle design“.

Furthermore, saddle panels can be used to compensate for uneven musculature in the horse. No horse is equally muscled on both sides of its body due to its natural crookedness. If you look at the horse from behind with the saddle on, you can recognise a possible imbalance that can be corrected with the saddle panels. But beware, the horse should be straightened and its muscles built up through targeted training rather than relying on saddle panels and saddle pads alone.

Furthermore, saddle panels determine whether the saddle’s centre of gravity is in the middle and close to the horse’s centre of gravity. For example, if the saddle’s centre of gravity is very far back, causing the rider to fall into a chair seat, the saddle can be flocked from behind with gusseted panels to give it height.

The amount of flocking in the saddle panels also determines how well the rider’s weight is distributed. The flocking must be neither too little nor too much. If the saddle has too little flocking, it loses its centre of gravity, its stability and therefore its ability to distribute pressure. If the saddle is overflocked, it will no longer cushion and create unpleasant pressure peaks in the horse’s back. Correctly flocked, the saddle only needs a thin saddle pad to protect the leather.

Last but not least, take a look at the angle of the panels by sliding the palm of your hand under the saddle. The panels should lie evenly on the horse’s back. If the angle is too narrow, the panels will only lie on the outside and create pressure at certain points. The saddle then comes too high over the back of the horse. If the panel angle is too large, there is no longer a sufficiently large channel and the saddle presses on the spine and also moves forwards and backwards.

The seat – purchasing criteria for the rider

A saddle should also fit the rider. For them, the seat size of the saddle is the deciding factor. Only when the rider sits comfortably, is neither constricted nor slips back and forth, can they give correct aids. Common seat sizes for adults are between 16.5 inches (36cm) and 18 inches (42cm), with 17 to 17.5 inches being the most common. The seat for children’s or pony saddles is 16.5 inches or less.

The seat size is usually measured from the centre of the nail head (the metal piece below the pommel) to the top of the cantle (rear part of the saddle). However, as with the front arch and gullet plate width, the measurement variants vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. This is because it is also possible to measure from the pommel to the centre of the cantle, while other manufacturers measure the saddle tree and derive the seat size from this. This means that riders have to try out different seat sizes and saddle designs. Just half an inch can make a big difference in comfort.

But the shape and curve of the seat also determine the rider’s comfort. The reason for this is the so-called twist. This is the area of the saddle that lies directly on the inner thighs. The width of the twist varies from one saddle design to the next. The upper inner thigh must rest evenly on the twist. If the twist pushes the legs and hips apart, the rider will experience the same pain as if the thigh has no contact at all.

When buying a saddle, you should bear in mind that men and women are built differently anatomically. Due to their anatomy, women often prefer a narrower twist than men. The width or narrowness of the twist does not necessarily have to do with the width of the horse, as a wide saddle can also have a narrow twist.

Finally, the riding level also plays a role, whether you prefer a flat seat or a deep seat. Beginners may find it difficult to maintain the correct position in a flat saddle. Deep saddles with a high cantle are therefore more suitable for beginners.

How should the saddle be positioned correctly? Riding in balance

Even a saddle that fits perfectly can cause saddle sores if it is not positioned correctly on the horse’s back. The saddle is placed on the withers and then pulled back into position so that the hair does not break. The points of the gullet plate are parallel, directly behind the shoulder blades, with the points pointing vertically towards the ground. The panels end in front of the last ribcage at the 18th thoracic vertebra. The outer limit of the saddle can be determined by feeling the last rib and following its course to the spine. In fat horses where the ribs cannot be felt, the point on the flank where the coat grows in the opposite direction can be used as a guide. Here too, an extension is drawn up to the spine.

If you stand behind the horse and look at the saddle, it should be centred and not lean to one side or the other.

As described in detail in the previous sections, the saddle reflects the shape of the horse’s back and its conformation. Ideally, the centre of gravity of the saddle and the horse should also match.

The centre of gravity of the saddle vs. the centre of gravity of the horse

Correct riding is all about riding in balance. To make this possible, the rider should sit with their saddle directly above or at least in close proximity to the horse’s centre of gravity. The centre of gravity of the saddle describes the lowest point of the seat and is easy to determine: If you place a round treat in the saddle, it should come to rest approximately in the centre of the saddle. If this is not the case, the saddle must be corrected at the front or rear.

Determining the horse’s centre of gravity, on the other hand, is not quite so easy because, unlike the saddle, the centre of gravity is not in the middle of the horse. It is often at the level of the 9th or 10th thoracic vertebra, but can vary depending on the horse’s body balance. The horse should always be considered as a whole and the forehand and hindquarters should be considered in relation to each other:

• With the horse standing, draw a connecting line from the shoulder joint to the centre of the withers (shoulder angulation)
• Another connecting line runs from the hip joint to the hip hump (hip angulation)
• Underneath, where the lines meet above the horse, is the horse’s centre of gravity.

Logically, the saddle’s centre of gravity should be at this point. As this is not always possible, the centre of gravity should at least be close.

If the centre of gravity of the saddle is too far back, but the stirrup bar is further forward, the result is a chair seat with a blocked pelvis. Correct aids are then not possible, even placing the leg in a guarding position requires greater effort and the rider tenses up. The rider finds it difficult to lift themselves out of the saddle for rising trot or a two-point seat. In addition, the rider’s weight presses into the horse’s loins.

If the centre of gravity of the saddle is at the front and in front of the stirrup bar, the rider tilts forward and gets a fork seat. As a result, the rider finds it difficult to sit deeply in the saddle and bring the horse into collection. The horse tries to compensate for the rider’s weight tipping forwards with increased speed.

Does the saddle fit? Check the saddle area for trigger points

As a horse owner, you should regularly check the fit of the saddle and the horse’s back for unevenness or trigger points yourself. Even slight muscular changes in the horse can unbalance the saddle and lead to pressure peaks.

Start at the shoulder: feel the edge of the shoulder blade with the palm of your hand and your fingertips. The saddle must not rest here. Now use the weight of your palm alone to stroke over the shoulder, below the withers and along the long back muscle. The muscle fibres under the hand should be smooth; you should not be able to feel any bumps, indentations or warm areas.

Next comes the three-finger technique. This is used to feel for blockages or displaced vertebrae. The thumb and middle finger frame the withers, the index finger rests on the spinous processes. Now move along the entire spine, starting at the withers. The index finger should glide over the spinous processes, with all vertebrae evenly spaced. If the index finger feels an irregularity, it may be a blockage or a displaced vertebra. In this case, it is imperative to consult an equine therapist.

The next step is to pinch and press the spine to identify any pain points. To do this, use your fingertips to pinch the back muscle directly next to the spine up to the croup. The rest of the saddle area is then pressed. It is safe to apply a lot of pressure here. If the horse moves away or twitches, repeat the pressure at this point. Some horses are ticklish and show a reaction the first time they are felt. If this reaction does not subside, a specialist should be consulted. An exception to a strong reaction is a reflex point located at the end of the saddle area: Here it can be normal for the horse to swerve.

The girth position must also be taken into account. Incorrect girthing or girth designs can lead to irritation and pain at the ribcage. Just as the saddle area has already been checked with the finger tips, the girth position is now checked from top to bottom in the direction of the elbow. This is followed by the sternum, the lower girth position. Here too, the horse should show no reaction or swelling of the tissue after several repetitions.